Trendy Vs. Traditional? Microblading Vs. Shaded Brow?

 By Melisa A. Ferriola, CPCP, LE

Microblading is the hot new trend in permanent eyebrows. It has hit the internet by storm – Facebook, Pinterest and Instagram all have thousands of pictures of gorgeous hairstroke brows done by a technique called “Microblading.” Clients ask for it by name. There are no blades used in this procedure, but it IS tattooing and it IS permanent. The result is very fine lines that closely simulate brow hairs for a more natural finished look.

Shading is a tattooing technique that gently lays pigment into the skin to create a brow similar to a soft powdered brow. This is also permanent. The best representations of a shaded brow have soft edges and natural blonde and brown color tones. Let’s compare the two styles.  

Color: The color of any object as seen by our eyes, is created by the reflection of light. With a shaded brow, the entire surface of the brow area has pigment laid into the skin and when the correct color is used in combination with your unique skintone, a beautiful blonde or brunette brow is created. With the fine lines of microblading, very little pigment is implanted in the skin and the fine slivers of pigment have very little opportunity to reflect light and create color for the eye to see. As a result, most microbladed brows reflect a more cool color tone. If a warm brown tone is desired long term, a shaded brow will produce a better result on most people.

Longevity: A soft, gently shaded brow, done well, will simulate the look you are achieving now with your brow powder and makeup brush. Depending on the original look created, color used and homecare, shaded brows will last 2 to 3 years before a color and shape boost appointment is needed. For a microbladed brow, strokes can only be reinforced 2 to 3 times during a session. With such little pigment placed in the skin, the hairstrokes will need a refresh every 10 to 18 months.

Natural looking esthetics: A technique that is simulating a hair will look more natural like the brow hairs that you have (or don’t have). A microbladed brow will simulate this look from day one. This look will be fresh for up to about 8 to 10 months when each hairstroke goes through a light fading. A well-done shaded brow will simulate the makeup look that you are achieving with your brow powder. This can be a light shadow behind existing hairs and define a brow shape where there are no brow hairs. Your soft, shaded brow will hold a soft formation for up to 2 to 3 years with a gentle fading of the same color. Good (and great) technique is the best solution for a natural look. Both techniques can achieve this.

Which brow type is right for you?

Always visit your permanent cosmetic artist for a consultation. Your technician should be able to provide a variety of options to you – shaded, ombre, hairstrokes, or any combination of these.  One size does not fit all and different skin types, medical issues, age, medication, and lifestyle are all contributing factors for determining which technique will provide the best long-term result. Your technician should be able to consult to your specific situation.

Having your brows done with permanent cosmetics is a wonderful and very convenient procedure. Clients have exclaimed, “This is the best thing I have ever done for myself!” However, please choose a technician that is highly trained with at least 100 hours of basic training and that can demonstrate proof of regular continuing education classes. Please beware of Spa Estheticians that are taking 2-Day classes and offering the microblading service. While having your brows done is a big step, working with the right technician will make it a safer and better experience. Hope to see you soon at Lasting Looks!